Walking The Salt Path: Raynor Winn’s Journey Through Lynton, Lynmouth & the Valley of Rocks
Raynor Winn’s memoir The Salt Path is more than a story of hardship and healing—it’s a deep walk into the wild soul of the British coastline. As the South West Coast Path winds through Lynton and Lynmouth, it passes towering cliffs, ancient oak woods, and the iconic Valley of Rocks. Here, visitors can trace the real path walked by Raynor and Moth—footstep by footstep.
A Story of Resilience Along the Exmoor Coast
After losing their home and livelihood, Raynor and Moth set out on a 630-mile walk from Minehead to Land’s End. Their trek takes them across one of Britain’s most exposed and beautiful landscapes: the South West Coast Path. Along the way, they sleep rough, weather storms, and rediscover meaning through the rhythm of the sea and the silence of open sky.
One of the most powerful stretches lies within Exmoor National Park. The trail into Lynton and Lynmouth drops steeply from Countisbury Hill before following the East Lyn River to the sea. Above it all, cliffs loom high and the trail clings tightly to the edge—just as it did for the couple whose journey now resonates worldwide.
The Valley of Rocks: Where Land Meets Legend
Just west of Lynton lies the Valley of Rocks—a natural amphitheatre of jagged stone spires, wind-gnarled hawthorns, and feral goats navigating the ridgelines. A few key scenes from The Salt Path film adaptation were filmed here, capturing its eerie grandeur and timeless feel.
This is more than a location; it’s a symbol. The rocks stand like monuments to endurance—much like the book itself. Whether arriving on foot via the South West Coast Path or looping from Lynton through Hollerday Hill, the Valley offers one of the most powerful walking experiences in the region.
Walk in Their Footsteps
You don’t need to walk 600 miles to feel the path’s impact. One of the most rewarding day walks starts right in Lynmouth, follows the Cliff Railway or zig-zags up to Lynton, and continues west along the coast path to the Valley of Rocks. Extend the walk to Lee Bay or complete a circular route via Hollerday Hill.
Each step offers something: wind-whipped headlands, scent of gorse in bloom, ravens wheeling overhead, and a view that opens wide to the Bristol Channel. Walkers often describe it as grounding, meditative, even healing. Just as Raynor and Moth found.
Stay Where the Coast Path Unfolds
Lynton & Lynmouth are perfectly placed for walking holidays inspired by The Salt Path. Stay in a harbourside B&B, a moorland-view hotel, or a guesthouse with walking gear drying facilities. Many hosts offer route advice and share the kind of stories you’ll only hear from people who’ve lived on this land for decades.
Nearby places like Woody Bay and Heddon Valley also offer rich texture for those who want to explore beyond the page. These aren’t just stops on a map—they’re lived-in landscapes where sea, sky, and path converge.
Literary Travel Meets Local Experience
The Salt Path isn’t just a book—it’s an invitation. To slow down. To reconnect. To feel the ground beneath your boots and the salt air in your lungs.
Lynton and Lynmouth offer a rare mix: wildness, welcome, and walking routes that bring Raynor Winn’s story into vivid, tangible focus.
Whether you’re here for a day or a week, this corner of Exmoor leaves a mark.
The path is waiting.
Stay near the Valley of Rocks
